Don't Have

“Don’t have” is a common phrase here in Malawi. It is used often and in the most unexpected places. Like today. We are in Lilongwe for a meeting. We made the 5 hour drive yesterday so we could stock up on things that are unavailable, (or more expensive) in Mzuzu—like brown rice, cheese, skim milk powder, and granola. We shopped as soon as we got here. But we didn’t follow the first rule of life in Africa…”If you need it and they have it – get it.” Today, this pertained specifically to fuel. We made it to Lilongwe with over ¼ tank to spare, enough to get us around Lilongwe the next couple of days. We had some serious shopping to do, so first things first. We could fill up before returning to Mzuzu. At the end of the day the announcement came over the radio: “Fuel shortage starting today…may last up to a week.” Country wide! A week!! Last year we were stuck in Lilongwe overnight with a fuel shortage. The thought of spending an entire week here was less than exhilarating. This was supposed to be a 2 day trip.

The next day, as we shopped for a giant cook pot, Paul mentioned our dilemma to an Indian shopkeeper . He graciously informed us that owners of the station he uses has their own truck fleet. So he called on our behalf and was told there was a fuel tanker arriving within in an hour. We quickly finished up our shopping and drove over to the station, where trucks of all descriptions were lining up. Crowds of Malawians huddled around the pumps, filling up their 5 gallon drums and carrying them away . The temperature was high and emotions higher still. There was lots sweating and jostling for positions. Only one diesel pump was open. It looked hopeless.

Jumping the cue, Paul maneuvered our pick up into the line, squeezing in between 2 enormous tractor trailers and about 10 can carrying Malawians. It took the truck in front of us 30 minutes to put the 700 litres of fuel into his 2 tanks. We waited tensely as the driver pulled away and Paul edged into place. But we made it! After a few drum fill ups we had our turn. It took us 2 ½ minutes to fill and pay. We would be able to return to Mzuzu when we planned!

You never know when things will be available. In Mzuzu, stores have run out of bread, sugar, meat (for a month), jam (all types), brown flour, yeast, candles, chicken and numerous other items. They just aren’t available – anywhere. You just do without. Restaurants may have an extensive menu, but if you order anything but “chicken & chips” they will often say, “Don’t have.”

Right now our fuel tank is full and we have most of the things on our shopping list. And on our next trip to Lilongwe the first place we will go when we arrive is the gas station. You just never know.

Would you like to see an amazing picture of the gas station grid lock?

“Don’t have.”